Wednesday, March 7, 2012

Overlooked meats - Part 1: Lamb shank fricassee

I've decided to write a number of recipes devoted to introducing some sadly overlooked cuts of meat. If all you're familiar with are rib-eye steaks, beef tenderloin (if you're fortunate enough to be able to afford it), and pork chops, this series of recipes will hopefully broaden your view of just how many delicious cuts of meat are available. Actually, in America (or at least, in New England, where I live), the variety of meat that is available is very limited in comparison to Europe, or even Canada (where I grew up).

The only problem with some of these cuts is that they are very tough and require long cooking times, which is perhaps why they are not so widely-used. These might be dishes that you could cook on the weekends when you have a few hours to let them simmer away.

The first dish is a fricassee made from lamb shanks. The shank is the lower part of the leg (shin) and since it is constantly working, it tends to be rather tough. Because of this, it is a good candidate for braising, which tenderizes the meat through long cooking in a liquid that later becomes the sauce. This recipe should be enough for 4 people.

2 lamb shanks
3 large portobello mushrooms, cubed
2 stalks celery, cut into very small cubes
3-4 medium-sized shallots, chopped
white wine
1 full teaspoon flour
2 cloves garlic
2 bay leaves
few stalks of rosemary
a bit of cream

Trim the visible layer of silverskin from the lamb. Silverskin is a tough, somewhat shiny membrane that can easily be removed by slipping a knife under it and slowly working the knife edge along the tough membrane. Once they've been trimmed, brown the shanks all over in some olive oil until they're golden.

Remove the shanks from the pot and add the shallots and saute them until they're soft. Next add the celery and mushrooms and sautee until the mushrooms have been softened and reduced in volume (they shrink because the water within them evaporates as you cook them, which intensifies the flavor). Next, add the flour to the pot and mix it in until it incorporates with the oil.

Return the shanks to the pot, then pour in the wine until the shanks are about halfway covered in liquid. Wrap the garlic, bay leaf, and rosemary in  cheesecloth to make a bouquet garni.



Put the bouquet garni in the liquid; it adds flavor without being overpowering, and can easily be discarded once the dish is finished. Add salt and pepper, but don't try to get the seasoning right for now; if you do, it will most likely be over-seasoned once it's cooked, since some liquid will evaporate and the flavors will transfer during cooking. Always under-season braised dishes at the beginning, you will correct it once it's completely cooked.

Bring the pot to a simmer, then place a lid on it and lower the heat to the lowest possible setting that will allow a very gentle simmer (bubbles just gently break the surface of the liquid). Even better, you can place the pot in a very low oven (200-225F) as long as it doesn't have plastic handles. Keep an eye on it periodically to make sure it doesn't boil too vigorously. Also, occasionally turn and move the shanks while they cook.



After about an hour and a half, take the shanks out and trim all the meat from the bones into small cubes. Return the meat to the pot along with the bones and simmer for another 1-1.5 hours. If you want the sauce to be rather thick, you can take the lid off the pot to allow it to reduce near the end (last 15-20 minutes, depending on how thick you want it and how high your heat is). Once it's done, take out the bouquet garni and the bones, and add a bit of cream, to your taste. Now you can finally correct the seasoning.

This dish works well on its own, or with a thicker sauce, goes very well with fresh tagliatelle (or good dry pasta).